Out for a walk in Crete

Lately I have made many beautiful walks with great enthusiasm and I did not have the patience to sit down and write about them. So the dilemma: shall I tell you about Karanou, a place widely known for its excellent taverns and where I found a gorge of extreme natural beauty? It attracted me so much that I went already four times! It is not a very easy walk since it involves a bit of climbing but hey, that is also part of the adventure. At some places you feel like walking in a jungle. Every now and then you have to cross a stream and small waterfalls make the scenery amazing. Here I spotted the first Barlia orchid, also called Giant orchid which has a delicious scent.

beautiful nature

beautiful nature

Or shall I tell you about the circular walk near the monastery of Gouverneto where I found (thanks to a friend) a great “off the beaten track” trail that leads into the wild gorge of Avlaki? Actually, this walk was one with many highlights. First of all the weather was great. One of the reasons why I will keep on telling you to come to Crete during winter, there are great sunny days for walks.


Another highlight was finding wild stamnagathi which grows mainly on Crete. Stamnagathi is a green leaf that has a slightly bitter taste. It is very hard to pick since it grows around a thorny bush. Fortunately it is today widely available since it is cultivated all year round. So if you want to try stamnagathi, just go to the Agora in Chania or ask a local tavern. It is delicious and very healthy. Last but not least, spotting some rare Cretan tulips and a butterfly orchid that just started to bloom made my day. It means spring is in the air!!!

wild tulips growing on rocks

wild tulips growing on rocks


A walk to Nóxia starting from Marathokefála

Exploring Crete on foot is a great way to discover it. There are plenty of good books with excellent walk descriptions. For me however, still the adventurous way is to take a map, find a place and see if there are any paths in that specific area. If I do not see them on a map, I simply ask the people in the kafeneion. Usually the elderly people still know where the “monopatia” (trails) can be found. If they know a trail, they will explain it to me in several ways, but always tell my that it is easier by car.

This time I started my walk at the church of St. John the Hermit, located in a cave near the village of Marathokefála. I take my time to enjoy the marvelous view. It is a clear day and I can even see Chaniá. A nice path leads me initially downhill. Suddenly the path becomes invisible and it involves some climbing to get back on a proper trail. Something I like, one never knows if a trails leads to somewhere and I love finding new paths.

My plan is to walk to the village of Nóxia. In the prefecture of Chaniá, Nóxia is the only village where traditional potters are still at work. It is well worth a visit.

It only takes an hour to get to Nóxia and I take my time to visit the pottery. Then I find my way to the kafeneion for a Greek coffee. I can’t leave without drinking a raki that a farmer offers me.

Since I like to make detours, I decide to take a different route on my way back. A short walk brings me to the hamlet of Gerakanía. Surprisingly no kafeneion here. As I leave the village walking uphill , I can even see Rócca , which are the ruins of a Byzantine fortress. They are on a steep hill, called Troúli, next to the village of Rócca.

An unpaved road passing through olive groves, offers fantastic views at the lush green landscape and the sea. Before I realize, I am back at the parking place where I left my car.

I feel happy and full of energy after this pleasant 3 hours walk.Cave of St. John the HermitPath with a view

Gorge of Deliana or Mesavlia

Just 20 minutes drive from the village of Kolymbari is Deliana. Here you will find the well-preserved frescoes in the beautiful Byzantine church of Agios Ioannis. A “must see” before you start your walk through the gorge.

An unpaved road will take you in about 10 minutes to enter the gorge. The gorge of Deliana is one of the most easiest gorges to walk. It is more a wide track that gradually ascends. You might be lucky and spot some vultures. On the day that I passed the gorge, I counted twelve!

If you want to make a circular walk, you continue the path that goes up at the end of the gorge. At some places it is even marked, although not very clear. What I loved about the circular walk is the small detour that you can make on your way back. There is a sign to a Byzantine castle. It is more a hike than a walk when you walk along this trail, but it is definitely worth it since from this point you will have the most amazing views over the island of Crete. On a clear day you can even see Roka and the Polyrrinia. Imagine living in Byzantine times…. they must have been able to communicate with each other from these castles! Take the same trail back from were you came from and continue the road. It is partly paved, mainly downhill and a small steep part uphill before the road takes you back to the village of Deliana.Image

Walking from Vamos to Douliana

November is a lovely month in Crete. The tourist season has ended, the weather is still great and ideal for walkers. I found a nice walk in the book “Discover Vamos on Foot” (http://www.discoveronfoot.com/), 3,5 hours from Vamos to the village of Douliana. Vamos is a very pretty village in the area of Apokoronas, West Crete with a lot of history. Just wander around the old streets, you will find beautifully restored Venetian Houses. Also, it is an ideal base for walkers. The walk starts in the square of the village and takes you through a beautiful landscape to the traditional village of Douliana. The track is easy and after passing the church of Agios Antonios (loved the sign “Rock Church”, it is actually a small church build in a cave) the road goes uphill to the village Douliana. Douliana has a second name “Xiliandros” which means “village of a thousand men”. Well, I did not spot any, but I really enjoyed this walk!Image